Illiniza Sur Expedition

Illiniza Sur (5,248 m) is a steep, glaciated peak in Ecuador’s Avenue of the Volcanoes, known for its imposing ice routes and dramatic ridgelines. It’s considered one of the most technically demanding climbs in the country and is ideal for experienced mountaineers looking for a short, high-intensity glacier objective.

Certified IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide
All meals during the expedition
Camping equipment (tents, kitchen gear, etc.)
Arrieros (muleteers) for gear transport
Private transportation
Group climbing gear (ropes, ice screws, snow stakes, etc.)

Sharp, steep, and stunning — Illiniza Sur doesn’t just test your skills, it elevates them...

PREPARATION

Fitness

Very high. Requires physical endurance, excellent acclimatization, and capacity for high-intensity movement at altitude.

Technical

High. Involves glacier travel, front-pointing on 50–60° slopes, and roped climbing. Prior mountaineering experience is essential.

Altitude

5,248 m (Summit of Illiniza Sur)

Itinerary

Day 1 – Approach to Refugio Nuevos Horizontes (4,750 m)

Morning pickup from Quito or Latacunga and drive to La Virgen trailhead (3,950 m). From there, we hike across open páramo terrain toward the Nuevos Horizontes Refuge, located in the saddle between Illiniza Norte and Sur. After arrival, we organize gear, review glacier safety protocols, and rest early in preparation for the summit.
⏱️ 3–4 hours hike

Day 2 – Alpine Start and Summit of Illiniza Sur (5,248 m)

We begin the ascent around 2:00 AM under headlamps. The route climbs steep glacier terrain with consistent 50–60° angles, crevasse zones, and mixed snow/ice conditions depending on season. Movement is done roped, with use of crampons and ice axes essential. After 4–6 hours of climbing, we reach the summit, where we’ll enjoy panoramic views of Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, and the Ecuadorian Andes. The descent retraces our steps to the refuge, followed by the hike down to the trailhead and private transfer back.
⏱️ 8–10 hours (climb + descent + return)