anapaccha (5,460 m) is a hidden gem in the Cordillera Blanca, located in the Llanganuco Valley. Its name means “black waterfall” in Quechua, and while smaller than some of its neighbors, it offers a fantastic alpine experience with dramatic seracs, crevasses, and sweeping views of the surrounding giants like Chacraraju and Huascarán. It’s a perfect peak for intermediate climbers seeking to build technical skills at high altitude.
Certified IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide
All meals during the expedition
Camping equipment (tents, kitchen gear, etc.)
Aarrieros (muleteers) for gear transport
Private transport from Huaraz to Llanganuco and back
Group climbing gear (ropes, ice screws, snow stakes, etc.)
Every summit begins with a single step — and this one leads to glaciers that touch the sky...
PREPARATION
Fitness
Good physical condition required. The approach is moderate, but summit day demands endurance and the ability to move efficiently in a roped team over glaciated terrain.
Technical
Moderately technical. Involves glacier travel, short ice sections of 50–60°, crevasse navigation, and some use of fixed ropes. Ideal for climbers building experience in the Andes or preparing for bigger objectives.
Altitude
5,460 m (17,913 ft) – summit elevation.
Itinerary
Day 1 – Huaraz to Base Camp / Glacier Training
Depart early from Huaraz (~2.5-hour drive) to Llanganuco Valley. Short hike (~1 hour) to Yanapaccha Base Camp (4,900 m). In the afternoon, we do a glacier skills training session: crampon technique, ice axe use, rope travel, and crevasse rescue basics. 🏕 Camp at Base Camp (4,900 m)
Day 2 – Summit Yanapaccha and Return to Huaraz
Early alpine start (~2:00 AM). Climb steep glacier slopes (50–60° sections) with several crevasse crossings. After 5–6 hours of climbing, reach the summit and enjoy breathtaking 360° views over the Cordillera Blanca. Descend carefully, pack camp, and return to Huaraz by late afternoon. 🧗 Climb time: 8–10 hours round trip 🚐 Transport back to Huaraz