Huascaran Expedition

Huascarán (6,768 m / 22,205 ft) is the highest mountain in Peru and the fourth highest in South America. Its twin summits, Huascarán Sur and Huascarán Norte, dominate the Cordillera Blanca skyline. The ascent is a legendary journey across vast glaciers, high camps, and exposed sections under towering seracs. It’s a serious expedition that rewards those prepared for both the altitude and the mental challenge of a multi-day high mountain climb.

Certified IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide
All meals during the expedition
Camping equipment (tents, kitchen gear, etc.)
Donkeys and arrieros (muleteers) for gear transport
Private transport from Huaraz to Musho and back
Group climbing gear (ropes, ice screws, snow stakes, etc.)

Stand on the roof of Peru. Huascarán challenges the body and humbles the soul—an ascent you’ll carry with you forever...

PREPARATION

Fitness

Very high level required. Climbers must be capable of carrying loads and moving for 8–12 hours per day at extreme altitude. Prior acclimatization above 5,500 m and previous high-altitude expedition experience are strongly recommended.

Technical

Moderate to Advanced. Involves glacier travel, steep snow and ice (40°–60°), deep crevasses, and the risk of avalanches and rockfall. Good crampon technique, rope travel skills, and experience with fixed ropes are essential.

Altitude

6,768 m (22,205 ft) – summit of Huascarán Sur
6,655 m (21,834 ft) – Huascarán Norte

Itinerary

Day 1 – Lima to Huaraz (3,050 m)

🚌 Travel day. Private transport or comfortable bus from Lima to Huaraz (8–9 hours).
🏨 Overnight in Huaraz for rest and acclimatization.

Day 2 – Huaraz to Huaypan (Trailhead) – Trek to Huascarán Refuge

Drive to the eucalyptus forests above Huaypan (~3,800 m). Begin scenic hike gaining altitude with views of the Cordillera Negra and Callejón de Huaylas. Pass into queñual forest and narrow moraine trails until reaching the Huascarán Refuge (~4,700 m).
🥾 Hike: 5–6 hours
🏕 Overnight at Refuge

Day 3 – Refuge to Camp 1 (5,400 m)

Continue hiking on stable moraine terrain to the glacier’s edge. Once on the glacier, cross relatively easy terrain, carefully avoiding visible crevasses, until reaching Camp 1.
🥾 Hike: 3–4 hours
🏕 Camp setup on the glacier

Day 4 – Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6,000 m)

🚨 Early alpine start (~3:00 AM) to cross “La Canaleta” — the technical crux of the climb and a high-risk avalanche zone. Traverse carefully toward the Garganta (the “throat”) and set up Camp 2.
🧗 Glacier progression and fixed ropes
🏕 Camp at 6,000 m

Day 5 – Summit Day: Huascarán Sur (6,768 m) – Return to Camp 2

Begin climbing pre-dawn over a vast glacial plateau, then tackle 50° slopes, traverses, and serac sections. Reach the summit of the highest mountain in Peru and admire a truly breathtaking 360° view of the Andes, the Callejón de Huaylas, and the Conchucos region. Return via the same route.
🧗 Climb time: 10–14 hours
🏕 Overnight at Camp 2

Day 6 – Camp 2 to Refuge

Start early to safely descend past La Canaleta, down to Camp 1 and the refuge.
🥾 Descent: 6–7 hours
🏕 Overnight at the refuge or return further depending on pace

Day 7 – Refuge to Huaypan or Musho – Return to Huaraz

Descend through the forest and valleys back to the road. Depending on route, exit via Huaypan or Musho.
🚐 Private transport to Huaraz
🏨 Overnight in Huaraz

Day 8 – Huaraz to Lima

🚌 Return to Lima via private transport or tourist bus. End of expedition.