Chopicalqui Expedition

CHOPICALPI EXPEDITION

Chopicalqui (6,354 m) is the third-highest peak in the Cordillera Blanca, located between Huascarán and Contrahierbas. Known for its elegant snow-covered ridge and stunning views, it offers a rewarding climb for those seeking a classic high-altitude mountaineering challenge. The route features glacial travel, crevasse crossings, and a striking final summit ridge.

Certified IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide
All meals during the expedition
Camping equipment (tents, kitchen gear, etc.)
Arrieros (muleteers) for gear transport
Private transport from Huaraz to Ishinca Valley and back
Group climbing gear (ropes, ice screws, snow stakes, etc.)

Chase the edges of the sky — and stand where only few have stood before…

PREPARATION

Fitness

Excellent physical condition is required. Summit day is long and demanding, and the altitude and technical sections require climbers to be well prepared and acclimatized.

Technical

Moderately to highly technical, involves steep snow and ice up to 60°, crevasse crossings, and a narrow exposed summit ridge. Prior glacier and rope experience is necessary.

Altitude

6,354 m (20,846 ft) – summit elevation.

Itinerary

DAY 1 – HUARAZ TO LLANGANUCO / MORRENA CAMP (~5,000 m)

Drive ~3 hours to the stunning Llanganuco Valley. Begin hiking with porters to Morena Camp near the glacier edge.
⛺ Camp on moraine at ~4,900 m.

DAY 2 – ASCEND TO HIGH CAMP (~5,500 m)

Carry gear and ascend the glacier, navigating crevasses and moderate snow slopes.
⛺ Set up camp on snow plateau below summit ridge.

DAY 3 – SUMMIT CHOPICALQUI AND RETURN TO BASE CAMP

Alpine start (~1:00 AM). Navigate glaciated terrain, climb steep snow ramps, and cross exposed ridgelines. Final push to the summit (PD+/AD-).
🏔️ Enjoy breathtaking views of Huascarán, Pisco, and the surrounding range. Descend to Morrena or Base Camp.
🕓 Climb time: ~10–13 hours round trip.

DAY 4 – RETURN TO HUARAZ

Descend to trailhead and drive back to Huaraz.
☕ Afternoon arrival in town.