Alpamayo Expedition

Alpamayo Mountain is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, famous for its iconic pyramidal shape and geometric perfection. Located in the Cordillera Blanca, within the Huascarán National Park, this expedition is not only a technical challenge, but also an unforgettable experience for those looking to delve into the majesty of the Peruvian Andes.

Certified IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide
All meals during the expedition
Camping equipment (tents, kitchen gear, etc.)
Pack animals (donkeys) and arrieros (muleteers) for gear transport
Private transport from Huaraz to Cashapampa and back
Group climbing gear (ropes, ice screws, snow stakes, etc.)

During the expedition, you will enjoy unparalleled landscapes, including impressive glaciers, turquoise lagoons, and snow-capped peaks that seem to touch the sky...

PREPARATION

Fitness

Clients must be in excellent physical condition. The expedition includes long days at altitude, steep snow and ice climbing, and carrying gear. Prior acclimatization and endurance are essential.

Technical

Alpamayo is considered a technical climb. Experience with ice axe and crampon techniques, as well as prior high-altitude climbing, is required. You should be comfortable with 60–70° snow and ice slopes.

Altitude

Peak altitude: 5,947 m (19,511 ft)

Itinerary

Day 1 – Huaraz to Cashapampa / Hike to Llamacorral (3,760 m)

Drive 3–4 hours from Huaraz to Cashapampa (2,900 m). Begin the approach hike through the Santa Cruz Valley.
🏕 Overnight at Llamacorral.

Day 2 – Llamacorral to Base Camp (4,300 m)

Continue trekking along stunning alpine valleys until reaching Alpamayo Base Camp.
🏕 Camp at 4,300 m with breathtaking views.

Day 3 – Base Camp to Moraine Camp (4,900 m)

Steep and rocky approach to Moraine Camp. First views of Alpamayo’s snowy flanks.
🏕 Camp on a rocky terrace above the glacier.

Day 4 – Moraine Camp to High Camp (5,450 m)

Glacier travel and steep snow sections lead to High Camp, perched just below the face. Set up camp on the glacier.
🏕 Camp on snow at 5,450 m.

Day 5 – Summit Day: French Direct Route

Alpine start (~1:00 AM). Ascend the southwest face (French Direct or Ferrari Route): sustained 60–70° ice.
After 5–7 pitches, reach the summit ridge and take in one of the most rewarding views in the Andes.
Rappel down, rest at High Camp or Moraine Camp depending on time.
🧗 Climb time: 10–12 hours round trip

Day 6 – Descent to Cashapampa / Return to Huaraz

Early descent to Base Camp, continue hike down to Cashapampa.
🚐 Return transport to Huaraz in the late afternoon.