Artesonraju Expedition

Artesonraju (6,025 m / 19,767 ft) is perhaps the most iconic peak in the Cordillera Blanca – many recognize it as the real-life inspiration for the Paramount Pictures logo. Its nearly perfect pyramid shape and steep, icy flanks offer a serious alpine challenge. This mountain is for seasoned climbers seeking a truly aesthetic and technical ascent in one of the most spectacular glacial settings in the Andes.

Certified IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide
All meals during the expedition
Camping equipment (tents, kitchen gear, etc.)
Pack animals (donkeys) and arrieros (muleteers) for gear transport
Private transport from Huaraz to Laguna Parón and back
Group climbing gear (ropes, ice screws, snow stakes, etc.)

Chase the perfect line — climb the mountain that once lived only in your dreams...

PREPARATION

Fitness

Elite level required. You must be in top physical condition, accustomed to long summit days (10–14 hours), multi-day expedition life, and sleeping at high altitude. Prior high-altitude experience above 5,500 m is strongly recommended.

Technical

Highly Technical. The classic route involves 800–900 m of steep snow and ice (45° to 60°), including possible pitches of front-pointing, bergschrund navigation, and vertical sections depending on conditions. Solid experience with multi-pitch alpine climbing, self-rescue, and efficient glacier travel is essential.

Altitude

6,025 m (19,767 ft) – summit elevation.

Itinerary

Day 1 – Drive to Laguna Parón & Trek to Base Camp (4,600 m)

We leave Huaraz early and drive to Laguna Parón, one of the largest and most beautiful lakes in the Cordillera Blanca. From there, we hike 4–5 hours with porters and donkeys to establish Base Camp below the glacier’s moraine.

Day 2 – Carry & Acclimatization Hike to Moraine Camp

We carry some group gear up to Moraine Camp at ~5,000 m and return to Base Camp to sleep. This helps acclimatization and reduces the load on summit day.

Day 3 – Move to Moraine or High Camp (5,000–5,300 m)

We ascend to Moraine Camp and, if conditions allow, continue to High Camp on the glacier. We’ll set up camp early to rest before summit day.

Day 4 – Summit Day (6,025 m) & Return to Base Camp

The climb starts before midnight. We tackle 800–900 vertical meters of steep snow and ice, progressing through seracs and exposed ridges. After 8–10 hours of technical climbing, we reach the summit pyramid for sweeping views over Santa Cruz Valley and peaks like Alpamayo and Quitaraju. The descent is technical and requires full attention. We return to Base Camp by evening.

Day 5 – Hike Out & Return to Huaraz

Trek back to Laguna Parón and drive to Huaraz for a warm meal and well-earned rest.